29 July 2009

what makes them 'Kalai'? (original 18 June)

I recently discovered that the word "kalai" in Khmer means "impure", which inevitably led me to question the lifestyle of the three Kalai villages on the lining the road to Veun Sai. I understand that at first someone might assume the Krung here do not live purely as they drink excessive amounts of rice wine at nearly any possible excuse for a 'ceremony'. They are often drinking to ward off spirits or protect themselves from the harm inflicted by a spirit. Their core beliefs are centered in the supernatural world and any mind altering substance holds a different value to them, then simply escaping from reality or enjoying the high. Their is even a plant in the forest (asked for the English word but noone knew it) that can steal your memory of a way back home if you even look at it. Even when they are terribly drunk and trying to give me more glasses of wine, actually they are nearly forcing me to drink it, I view it as less impure than if the same was to occur in the states.

Traditionally alcohol has been a regular aspect of Cambodia's (and other Asian countries) aspect of ceremonies not simply a regular drink with lunch or dinner. They reserve this drink for celebrating weddinds, mourning a death or attempting not to "catch a spirit" after butchering a buffalo. There is a level of respect attached to drinking rice wine with strangers, so their continued offering of drinks is not simply 'peer pressure' but actually a respectful gesture. They were honoring me as a guest inerested in their culture. Preparing a baby chicken egg to eat with the vilage chief and keeping my glass full was their way of thanking me for visiting their farm and attempting to speak their language. My small bits of Krung showed that I was respectful of their culture and grateful of their welcoming gestures.

In thes states, there is a twisted view of alcohol that holds various complications, like the belief that alcoholism is a disease that overpowers freewill. With the first arrival of Europeans to America, people drank mostly liqour as they contracted diseases from the water. Rum was the first recipe discovered to suit settlers in the north but, was soon decided to be unagreeable with the heat of the southern states. So, people in the current state of Tennessee created a form of whiskey to drink in the warmer weather. These liqours were consumed at nearly every meal; it was actually believed that some liqours aided in improving your liver and digestion. People ate quickly as soon as the food appeared to be able to get the best picks and drink more afterwards. Actually, the most common cause of death in New York City was chocking during large group meals at hotels. This habit of speed and overconsumption continues in the American culture where people often try to reach a point of biligerence as quickly as possible. When beer did catch on in the states, it was diluted for easier consumption and drunk like water. Europeans thought Americans had a horrible taste as their beer was a full, rich flavor and drinking held certain ettiquete rules as most daily routines did. They prefered complex wines and beers after meals like an extra course in the meal.

Hence, I believe the Krung are an "kalai" people despite their habits of drinking rice wine, smoking tobacco and beginning to immitate fads from from the Khmer and Thai soaps. Their culture has remained intact with a pure respect for traditions much longer than the American belief in alcoholism. They are just beginning to their 'superstar' obsession as curiosity for satalites and Karaoke grows. Hopefully the modern media won't defile their culture to the level of material overconsumption that America seems to thrive in. I personally think the Krung in these "kalai" vilages are as pure as any Indiegnous person I've met in Cambodia so far.